Pastranomy: Close to Katz's Home Made Pastrami Recipe

Pastrami is corned beef with chutzpah, and it is at its ballsiest at Katz's Delicatessen in New York City. Katz's is a timeless throwback is where Harry met Sally's fake orgasm and they both met real pastrami. When you go, make sure to have what she's having, and leave your diet behind.

I have never duplicated Katz's pastrami, even though I pumped Chef Kenny Kohn for tips on technique, but I've come close. It is salty and smoky, but not in the way that other smoked meats are smoky. The smoke is not overt. It is blended in thoroughly. It is highly seasoned with black pepper and coriander dominating, but swimming across all your buds are a range of other herbs and spices. That's because pastrami is probably the most complicated process on this website. We start by soaking the beef for a week in a highly seasoned brine to make corned beef. Then we soak it in plain water. Then we rub it with more spices and let them nestle in for a day or two, then we smoke it, then we chill it, and finally we steam it. Whew!

Of course I can't be sure Kohn was leveling with me about the Katz's method. I asked him some questions twice in two interviews and I got two different answers. And if you spend a day watching YouTube videos of Katz's and reading reviews (as I have), you get more versions from Katz's managment and employees. I'm not saying they lie, but they do seem to be protecting their secrets with a straight face.

Culinary historians believe the highly seasoned, smoked, juicy, bright pink beef in a dark robe, was invented by poor Jews in schtetls (a Yiddish to English dictionary is below) in Romania where it may have been made from goose or duck meat. Today some avant garde chefs are returning to that tradition, even making it from salmon, turkey, or other cuts of beef, like round. Without refrigeration, meat spoiled quickly, so they rubbed it heavily with salt and pepper and other spices, and smoked it. This both tenderized it, flavored it, and helped it keep longer. Today, most pastrami is made from beef brisket or navel (a.k.a. plate), tough, stringy, fatty, cheap cuts. The process turns it tender and succulent.

Some say beef pastrami was first made in the US by an immigrant kosher butcher, Sussman Volk, in 1887, but that date is disputed by the owners of Katz's which opened in 1888. Katz's is the oldest deli in the nation, and a haimish New York landmark. If you have never been there, make the schlep to 205 E. Houston St. (pronounced HOW-ston) right after you get off the boat from the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island to complete the immigrant experience. Spend some time checking out the photos of presidents and other macher on the walls. The place is a museum.

It is absolutely worth waiting in line for the hand carved hot pastrami sandwich (doesn't that picture of the carving table, below, just make you verklempt), and if you are lucky, you can rest your tukhus at the table where the most memorable scene from the movie When Harry Met Sally was filmed. Yes, it was in Katz's that Sally (Meg Ryan) demonstrated for nudnik Harry (Billy Crystal) how a woman can fake it. Estelle Reiner, the mamele of director Rob Reiner, after watching Sally moan and groan and pound the table, utters one of the best lines in the history of filmdom: "I'll have what she's having". Kohn says Sally's ecstacy wasn't an act, it was the pastrami. The whole scene is on the video at right.

When you enter, you will be given a ticket. Don't lose it or you'll have to pay $50 when you check out. Take your place in a fast moving line and schmooze with the other droolers. You can get table service, but then you'll miss the show at the counter.

When you get to the front of the line, know what you want. Naturally I recommend the pastrami, but you can order all manner of traditional kosher cured meats like corned beef, a Reuben sandwich, beef tongue, a first rate kosher hot dog, knoblewurst, killer salami, and kishka. There's also chopped liver, liverwurst, and, of course, bagels with a schmear and lox. Save room for the bowl of half-sour pickles and pickled tomatoes on every table, or order matzo ball soup, knishes, latkes, blintzes, or kugel. Finish with a classic New York cheesecake and wash it all down with a beer or an egg cream. They sell no chazeray here. If you need a cheat sheet, scroll down. Learn these terms so you sound like a maven and so you don't have to ask for an explanation like a goy, even if you and all the Irish shamuses and most everyone else in the joint are. When you're done, you can "Send a Salami to a Boy in the Army" something they have been doing since the 1940s.

My standard order when I get to NY is pastrami on rye with yellow mustard on both slices of bread. That's it, bubbie. When the carver asks if you want "fatty or lean", don't be meshuga. Answer "fatty". If you want to sound expert say "plenty of speck (pronounced "shpek"), please". This is no time to count calories. If he said "juicier" or "drier" you wouldn't hesitate, would you? But this is serious fleishig so they calls it the ways they sees it. You got a problem with that?

Place a tip on the counter as he carves, and he'll slip you a nice free nosh. The meat is piled high, and you can get it with mustard, kraut, and melted Swiss. Don't be a putz and ask for mayo. And by the way, when it comes out of the steam box, it looks like a meteorite. It is not burned. That is just the black pepper laden spice rub that has darkened during the smoking process. And when it is carved, it is bright pink. It is not undercooked, that's just the color it turns during the curing process.

How Katz's makes pastrami

As best as I can tell by triangulating from interviews with cooks, countermen, cutters, and watching hours of YouTube, Katz's process begins with beef plate, a.k.a. navel. This is a cut from the area below the ribs, behind the brisket and it is just a bit more tender and fattier than brisket, which is cut from the chest. Chef Kenny Kohn says they soak the meat for weeks in a salty, spicy brine. What comes out is essentially corned beef, but their pastrami process is different from their corned beef process because the corned beef is dry cured, not soaked in a brine.

After brining, the pastrami is then coated with a secret rub that tastes to be mostly black pepper and coriander and refrigerated for a day or two. Then it is smoked to about 170°F, refrigerated for a day or two, and finally, the day it is to be served, it is steamed for 3 hours. Amazingly, the crust stays attached.

How Meathead makes pastrami

To do it all the way from scratch there are several time consuming steps:

1. Cure the beef.
2. Soak the corned beef.
3. Rub and let is sit.
4. Smoke the corned beef.
5. Let it sit.
6. Steam it and serve.

You can eliminate the first step by buying a good corned beef. But making your own corned beef and turning it into pastrami means that you can make it to your taste. Like cloves? Gahead. Want sugar in the rub? I won't tell on you. Want more smoke? Who's gonna stop you? More pepper? Bless you. Trust me, boychik, do it yourself and you will eat shards of meat packed with spicy flavor and silky richness mit groys fargenign. Surprisingly, the smoke wraps its fingers into everything without being obvious. Forgive me if I kvell.

Here. I'll spill the whole megillah:

Recipe for Close to Katz's Pastrami

Makes. About 3 pounds of pastrami after shrinkage, enough for 4 good sandwiches
Preparation time. Oy!
Cooking time. 6 hours approximately to smoke it plus 2 hours to simmer it, total 6 hours
Serve with. Latkes and kosher dill pickled tomatoes

Ingredients
4 pounds of good corned beef, preferably home made (click for recipe)
4 tablespoons fresh coarsely ground black pepper
2 tablespoons coriander powder
1 teaspoon mustard powder
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon paprika
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 teaspoons onion powder
4 to 8 ounces of smoke wood

About store bought corned beef. Corned beef comes in two forms, ready to eat, and brined. Ready to eat corned beef is cured, then cooked, and usually packaged in slices or sliced at the deli counter. Do not use this! Brined corned beef is usually a hunk of brisket that has been cured in a salt solution and packaged in a hearty cryovac plastic bag with some of the brine. It has not been cooked yet. That's the stuff you want.

About the rub. The paprika mostly adds color. If you want to veer from the conventional and amp it up a bit, substitute ancho powder or chili powder, but be careful, the black pepper and mustard supply an ample kick. You can leave anything out that you want except the black pepper and the coriander.

Do this
1) Make your own corned beef. It is just plain better than storebought. For pastrami, the flat section of the brisket is favored by many because it makes nice even slices for sandwiches, but I prefer the point section of the brisket because it is fattier, richer, and more tender. Yes, it sometimes breaks apart, but who notices on a sammy? If you can get it, go for navel (a.k.a. plate). But it can also be made from flank steak, or leaner cuts. If you are using brisket, one side of the meat will probably have a thick layer of fat on it called the cap. Remove all of the fat cap except about 1/8" and if there is any filmy membrane on the other side, remove it all. That thin layer of fat is important. The process takes about a week.

2) Desalinate. Submerge the corned beef in cold water in the fridge for about at least 8 hours. Change the water every 2 or 3 times. This removes excess salt. Trust me, you need to do this or you will be gulping water all night after your meal.

3) Rub. Make the rub by blending together all the spices. Rinse the meat, pat it dry with paper towels, coat it with a thin layer of cooking oil, apply the rub liberally and press it into the surface to help it adhere. If there is a thin part of meat, use less rub. Put in the fridge for a couple of days.

4) Smoke. Set up your smoker or your grill for smoking. You will find instructions for this in my Tips & Techniques section. If you can, use a charcoal smoker. It produces a deeper darker crust than gas, electric, or even pellets. Preheat to 225°F. Pick your wood. I don't think it makes a huge difference with all the other flavors banging around in there. My best batch was with cherry wood. Smoke it fat-side up over indirect heat at 225°F for about 3 to hours. You can then finish it outdoors or indoors at 225°F by taking it up to 170 to 190°F internal. Add wood when the smoke dwindles.

5) Chill. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 12 hours. You can keep it for a week if you wish. That's what Katz's does so that's what I do.

6) Steam. When it is time to serve it is time to heat and tenderizing. If you have a bamboo or metal steamer in which the meat will fit, you can use that. If not, take large hunks, not slices, and put it on a wire rack in a baking pan. Pour water in the pan right up to the rack, but don't get the meat wet or the rub will wash off. Cover with foil but don't let the foil touch the meat. The salt might interact and create electrical charges that can melt the foil. Put the pan on a burner, turn on the heat, and steam it an hour until heated through, adding hot water as needed, making sure the pan never dries out.

Optional Instead of Steaming: Braising. Put the meat in a pot, pan, or slow cooker and add hot water until the meat is only 1/4 to 1/3 submerged. Then put on a cover and bring it to a a very low gentle simmer for at least 3 hours refilling with water as needed. This will wash off some of the spices, but not to worry, there will be plenty of flavor because the simmering will help them penetrate the meat.

7) Slicing. Slicing is crucial to maximize tenderness. Look at the meat and notice which way the grain is running. Cut it by hand in thin slices, about 1/8" thick, perpendicular to the grain. If you cut parallel to the grain it will be much chewier. Don't try to slice it with a machine. It will just fall apart.

8) Serve. I serve it on fresh untoasted rye bread with a good mustard on both slices and a few shreds of sauerkraut. At Katz's they put about 1 pound of meat on each sandwich, and the Carnegie Deli uses even more. That's just too much for me devour without unhinging my jaw. 1/2 to 3/4 pound per sandwich is more than enough for home use. If you want, you can make a Rockin' Pastrami Reuben with sauerkraut, melted swiss, and thousand island dressing. Reubens were originally made with corned beef, but there's no rule that you can't make one from pastrami. In fact, I highly recommend it.

9) Leftovers freeze well and they can be reheated in the microwave or steamed. They can also be made into a killer hash. Ess, bench, sei a mensch!

This page was revised 2/3/2012