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salt & pepper shakersSeasoning is not the same as flavoring

Did you know that when professional chefs speak of "seasoning" a dish, they're talking about using salt and pepper, and only salt and pepper, not other herbs and spices? Herbs and spices are "flavorings".

Click here to learn what you need to know about the different types of salt.

Where to get great herbs & spices

Hot Stuff AwardLet me make this simple: Penzeys. This quality-first spice merchant began as a single store in Wisconsin and, as people compared the taste of Penzeys spices with the grocery store brands, they grew to about 30 locations nationwide. I had the pleasure of meeting the founders when they only had one store and they blew me away with their knowledge and sincerity.

Penzeys SpicesDo an experiment. Order one of Penzey's cinnamons (last I checked they had eight different cinnamons) and compare it with what you have on your shelf. It's like you've never tasted cinnamon before! You'll never go back. Order their catalog. It's beautiful and the recipes are also great. Alas, their website is not very good.

sage leaf

The Zen of Herbs & Spices

Meats and veggies often taste great unadorned. A great ribeye steak or a filet of fresh Chilean Sea Bass need nothing more than a little salt and pepper. But chefs make their living by amping foods up with herbs, spices, and sauces with herbs and spices in them. Here are some things to know about these important flavor enhancers and a list of what well armed cooks will have in their tool kits.

What are spices? Spices are flavorings made from seeds, berries, fruits, bark, and roots.

What are herbs? Culinary herbs are flavorings for cooking usually made from green leaves (that's a sage leaf at the top of the page). Medicinal herbs include things cooks call spices.

Fresh vs. dried herbs. Herbs are wonderful and fresh herbs are more wonderful. Fresh herbs can add an element of complex and bright flavor to whatever you are cooking. A pinch of rosemary in grits can make them really pop. Fresh basil and tomato are made for each other like peanut butter and jelly. Fresh herbs are really worth the effort to grow. They take up little space, and many can be grown in pots and on window sills. WindowBox.com is a good source for supplies for growing herbs indoors. In cooking, they are usually added just before serving, cooking for only 30-60 seconds, in order to preserve their freshness.

Storing fresh herbs. It is important to keep fresh herbs cool and moist. The best method is to put their stems in a vase of water in the fridge, but that's not very efficient spacewise. Another technique is to wrap them in moist paper towels and pur that in a plastic bag that has some holes to allow it to breathe so they don't get moldy.

Storing dried herbs and spices. Dried spices and herbs deteriorate with age, light, heat, moisture, and oxygen, and there can be a major difference in quality between a new bottle of basil and an old one. For that reason it makes sense to buy them in small bottles. My favorite spice merchant, Penzeys.com, sells many in half-bottle sizes holding about one ounce.

If you buy herbs and spices in plastic bags, put them in bottles. Air can penetrate bags. Twist the caps on tightly. Mark the date of purchase on the bottle. Store spices in cool, dark cabinets.

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Fresh green herbs can usually be frozen. Dried green herbs age more quickly than ground spices. Toss them after a year. Toss ground spices after two years. Whole spices keep longer still. They get the heave-ho after three years. But these are just guidelines. Notice the color when you buy herbs and spices. Most are bright and vibrant. When they get dull and flat, toss them. Notice the smell when you buy them. Rub some in the palm of your hand and smell. If it is not strong and distinctive, out the door it goes. If they clump and cake so much you need an ice pick, sayonara. Tossing old herbs and spices can get expensive. If you must use an old herb or spice, just increase the quantities by about 25-50%, and taste the dish frequently.

Caking. To keep them from caking, pour spices into a measuring spoon or your palm. Don't pour them directly into a hot pot because steam can get in when the spices get out.

3 parts fresh herbs = 1 part dried. Approximately. Sometimes. It's a good rule of thumb, but not perfect. Fresh herbs taste very different than their dried counterparts. Drying herbs can concentrate some of their flavors, while other flavors evaporate. Swapping fresh for dried can have a major impact on the recipe. So you should always try to use what the recipe calls for. That said, here are some guidelines for substituting dried herbs if you can't get a fresh herb.

Since there are three teaspoons in a tablespoon, if a recipe calls for fresh herbs and all you have is dried, just change tablespoons to teaspoons. So if the recipe calls for 1 tablespoon of fresh thyme, use 1 teaspoon or dried thyme. Please note, this only works if the herb is a minor part of the dish. For something like pesto, which is a pasty sauce made with lots of basil, you cannot substitute dried for fresh.

We use fresh and dried herbs differently, too. The flavors in fresh herbs are delicate and ephemeral, so they are usually added with about 5 minutes or less left in the cooking process. Chopping them makes them give up their flavors more easily. Dried herbs should be crumbled and need to be added earlier to extract their flavors.

Blends. There are numerous handy blends of dried herbs and spices on the market. Did you know that chili powder and curry powder are actually blends of several different ingredients? Some other popular blends are poultry seasoning, herbes de Provence, garam masala, five spice powder, lemon pepper seasoning, pickling spices, pumpkin pie spice, ras el hanout, and gumbo filet. Other popular commercial spice blends are Lawry's Seasoned Salt, Old Bay Seasoning, and Emiril's Essence. My recipes for Memphis Magic Dust, Cow Crust, Big Bad Beef Rub, Simon & Garfunkel Rub, and Rendezvous Rub are easy mixes for you to make.

Seasoned salts. Don't use seasoned salts such as garlic salt or celery salt in cooking. Use garlic powder or celery seed powder. This way you can better control the salt content. Seasoned salts are sometimes nice to use on the dinner table. Make your own blend by blending 1/2 cup od sea salt with a tablespoon of mixed herbs and spices.

Using herbs and spices

paprikaThe flavors in herbs and spices are usually locked in and need to be dissolved to produce their a taste. Sometimes they are dissolved in our saliva, but more frequently they are dissolved in food by one of three common solvents: Water, alcohol, or fats. Usually heat accelerates dissolution.

The flavor of many herbs and spices is in their oils and can best be released by putting them in oil. Heating the oil really accelerates extraction. It is not uncommon to start cooking by warming oil in a pan, adding onions until they wilt and sweeten in a few minutes, adding presssed garlic until it gives up its pungence in less than a minute, and then adding spices and dried herbs to extract their oils for about a minuter. The flavors spread throughout the oil and are then spread through the rest of the ingredients as they are added. The cooking process often ends by tossing in fresh herbs just before serving, just to warm them.

Oils can also be extracted and magnified by "blooming" ground spices in a dry warm, frying pan for a minute or two until they get aromatic. They can then be added to other ingredients.

Some herbs and spices can be packed in oil to extract their flavors, but this is too risky to do at home. The process easily produces Clostridium botulinum which can kill you of botulism.

Marinades. In most cases dried herbs and spices are best in marinates because thy are more potent and dissolve more easily.

Beware of "sprigs". Some recipes call for a sprig or rosemary or another herb. In general these are dangerous recipes unless they specify low long the sprig is or how much it should weigh. Rosemary, for example, can grow long sprigs, and the leaves can range from 1/4" to more than 1". Depending on the size of the sprig you choose, you could be adding perhaps three times as much flavoring as necessary.

The outdoor cook's pantry

There are lots of other great ways to bring flavor and complexcity to your dishes. You need hot stuff, tart stuff, oils, and dairy. Below is a list of what you need for a well-stocked pantry.

spice grinderIf you buy a good spice grinder you can get a lot of herbs and spices whole and grind them as needed. Whole seeds keep longer, taste better when ground fresh, and free up a lot of space in your kitchen. Get a coffee grinder for reducing peppecorns to crushed pepper, or for powdering celery seeds, anise, caraway, bay leaves, etc. Get one with a blade not burrs, and make sure it is easy to clean if you plan to use it for both coffee and spices ("Honey, why does the coffee make me cry today?"). I like the Krups GX4100 Electric Coffee and Spice Grinderbarbecue And while you're at it, get a garlic press. Makes quick work of smashing up garlic.

The essentials

Optional

Essential spices

Allspice
Celery seed
Cinnamon powder
Cinnamon sticks
Clove, whole
Coriander seed
Cumin seed
Garlic powder
Ginger powder
Nutmeg powder
Onion powder
Paprika, sweet


Essential dried herbs

Basil
Bay (laurel) leaf
Dill
Oregano
Rosemary
Sage
Tarragon
Thyme


Essential fresh herbs

Most of these will grow
well on a well-lit window sill

Basil
Chives
Oregano
Parsley
Rosemary
Sage
Thai Basil
Thyme
Tarragon


Essential hot stuff

Chili powder
Chipotle powder
Curry powder
Ginger, fresh
Horseradish in vinegar
Hot pepper sauces
Jalapeño chiles, fresh
Mustard, Dijon style
Mustard, yellow
Mustard powder

Peppercorns, black
Pepper, black ground


Grain products

Bread, fresh
Bread crumbs, plain
Couscous, instant
Corn starch
Cornmeal
Fettuccini
Flour, all-purpose
Macaroni
Mostaccioli
Potatoes
Rice, arborio
Rice, brown
Rice, white
Rice, wild
Spaghetti

Essential sweeteners

Honey
Hoisin sauce
Jam
Maple syrup
Molasses
Onions, caramelized
Orange juice concentrate
Sugar, white
Sugar, brown


Essential acids

Lemon juice, fresh
Lemon juice, bottled
Lime juice, fresh
Orange juice, bottled
Vinegar, distilled
Vinegar, cider
Vinegar, cheap balsamic
Wine, white


Essential fats & oils

Bacon fat
Butter, unsalted
Mayonnaise
Olive oil, cheap
Olive oil, good extra virgin
Peanut oil
Sesame oil


Essential produce

Ancho chiles
Bell pepper, green
Bell pepper, red

Carrots
Celery
Garlic, whole fresh
Onions, pearl
Onions, medium
Tomatoes, fresh Roma


Essential dairy

Butter, unsalted
Cheddar, sharp yellow
Chocolate, milk
Chocolate, semisweet chips

Cream Cheese
Sour cream
Swiss or Jarlsberg
Milk, at least 2% fat
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Yogurt, plain


Other essentials

Bacon
Beans, kidney, dried
Beer, lager
Beer, stout or porter
Bourbon

Broth, chicken
Broth, beef

Cranberries, dried
Coffee, whole bean
Commercial BBQ sauce
Eggs
Ketchup
Pesto, frozen
Pickles, dill
Pickles, sweet gherkins
Raisins
Salt, kosher
Salt, sea

Soy sauce
Tomatoes, canned whole
Tomato paste
Tomato salsa
Vanilla extract
Wine, medium dry sherry
Wine, low tannin red

Worcestershire sauce

Optional spices

Anise seeds
Caraway seeds
Cardamom seeds
Dill seeds
Fennel seeds
Five spice powder
Paprika, hot smoked
Peppercorns, Sichuan
Saffron
Star anise


Optional dried herbs

Chervil
Marjoram
Mint
Epazote
Lavender
Lemon grass
Savory


Optional fresh herbs

Cilantro/coriander
Chives
Dill
Mint
Parsley


Other optional stuff

Accent
Apple butter
Baking soda
Baking powder
Bell pepper, orange
Amaretto Liqueur
Chipotles in adobo
Coffee, instant
Cured ham
Ghee (clarified butter)
Grand Marnier Liqueur
Grenadine
Lemon zest
Liquid smoke
Orange zest
Panko
Pancake mix
Peppercorns, white
Raspberry Liqueur
Tamarind paste
Terriyaki sauce
Splenda
Sugar, turbinado
Sugar Twin
Wasabi powder
Yeast, dry



Substituting one herb or spice for another

Many herbs and spices are similar in taste so if you are out of one you can use another. By trading one herb for another you will be significantly changing the taste of the dish. Also, some herbs are stronger than others. For example, you can use rosemary in place of basil, but rosemary is much stronger. It is always better to make a quick run to the grocer or knock on your neighbor's door if you lack an ingredient, but making one of these substitutions usually will work. The dish will be good, but different. Here are some accuptible substitutions. Usually.

Thyme <----> Oregano <----> Savory
Mint <----> Basil <----> Tarragon <----> Marjoram <----> Rosemary <----> Sage
Cilantro <----> Parsley <----> Chervil
Chives <----> Green Onion Tops <----> Onion <----> Leek <----> Shallots
Allspice <----> Cinnamon <----> Cassia <----> Nutmeg <----> Mace <----> Cloves
Anise <----> Fennel Seed <----> Ginger Powder <----> Mustard Powder
Chili Powder <----> Ancho Powder <----> Chipotle Powder <----> Hot or Smoked Paprika

My favorite cooking tools

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Revised 4/29/2009


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AmazingRibs.com is all about the Zen of barbecue, grilling, and outdoor cooking, with great BBQ recipes and techniques: Barbecue baby back ribs, spare ribs, pulled pork, beef brisket, chicken, smoked turkey, steak, lamb, barbecue sauces, rubs, and side dishes, with the net's best buying guide to barbecue smokers and grills. It is written, photographed, illustrated, and coded solely by Craig "Meathead" Goldwyn.

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Meathead's Faves

These recommendations are not ads. They are unsolicited endorsements.

GrillGrates Take Your Grill Into the Infrared Zone

Hot Stuff Barbecue AwardGrillGrates are the best new product I have tested in years and the best thing to happen to beef since salt and pepper.

They sit on top of your current grill's grates. The hard anodized aircraft grade aluminum rail tops are flat and wide and make perfect dark crunchy grill marks. The base superheats yet eliminates hot spots and blocks flareups. This is the same concept behind the expensive new infrared grills.

Juices drip in the valleys between the rails and are vaporized and penetrate the meat enhancing flavor. I throw wood between the rails and they impart a delicate smoke flavor. I have made my best steaks and burgers ever with Grill Grates. This is a really great new product! Click here to read more and for ordering info.

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The Smokenator

If you have a Weber Kettle, you need the amazing Smokenator and Hovergrill. The Smokenator turns your grill into a first class smoker, and the Hovergrill can add capacity or be used to get steakhouse steaks. Click here to read more and for ordering info.

Weber Barbecue Smokenator

The Weber Smokey Mountain

Weber Smokey Mountaain Barbecue Grill

I am a big fan of the Weber Smokey Mountain Smokers. Click here to read my review.

Click here to order the 18.5" WSMbarbecue or the 22.5" WSMbarbecue from Amazon.


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