Pork by mail
2007 was the Chinese year 4708, the Year of the Pig, and China released stamps to commemorate the event. They are being sold on eBay. And no, they don't taste like sweet and sour pork.
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I love the "barbecued" ribs in most restaurants in Chinatown. They have a distinct porky flavor, a glossy sheen that implies the sweet glaze beneath, and a glowing red-pink color that penetrates the surface. But, unlike traditional Southern ribs, there is no smoke flavor, even though there is a pink ring beneath the surface of the meat. How do they do it?
Well, it turns out that Char Siu, even though it sounds like charcoal, is not grilled or smoked. It is roasted in a special oven. And it gets its ruddy tone from red food coloring. Sigh.
But it still tastes great. You can buy Char Siu sauce in Chinese specialty stores, and it makes a fine glaze, but it doesn't make ribs that taste like Chinese restaurant ribs. That's because it's thick and you need to marinate the meat in a thin sauce first. I've worked on this recipe for a while and I think I've finally nailed the technique for making Chinatown Char Siu Ribs at home in the oven or on the grill. Here's how to do this dizzingly delicious favorite.
Yield: 1 1/2 cups marinade, enough for 2 slabs of baby backs.
Preparation time: 20 minutes to make the marinade, 3-12 hours to marinate.
Cooking time: About 90 minutes.
The ribs
2 slabs of baby back ribs, cut in half
The marinade
1/2 cup hoisin sauce *
1/2 cup brandy (or rum or bourbon)
1/4 cup honey
1/4 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil *
2 tablespoons hot sauce *
2 tablespoons powdered ginger
1 tablespoon powdered garlic
1 tablespoon five spice powder *
2 tablespoons powdered onion
2 teaspoons red food coloring (this is necessary for the authentic color)
The glaze
About 1/4 cup of honey
The drink
The classics are Chinese beer or jasmine tea. If you can find it, try hibiscus tea or Pinot Grigio from Oregon (most of the California Pinot Grigios are borrrrring).
* Note. For more info about hoisin sauce, five spice powder, sesame oil, and hot sauce, click here.
Do this
1) Mix the marinade thoroughly in a bowl. Don't skip the booze. It helps penetrate, and even if you're a teetotaler, don't worry, there isn't any measurable alcohol in the ribs. If you must skip it, use apple juice or water, but booze is better. You can substitute fresh ginger and garlic for powdered ginger and garlic if you wish.
2) Marinate them for at least 3 hours in 2 zippered bags. Overnight is better.
3) Heat your cooker to about 300F. These ribs taste great cooked in an indoor oven. Just place them on a wire rack over a roasting pan or on a broiler pan. If you are using a gas grill, turn off one or two burners and place the meat over the cool burners. If you are using a charcoal grill, set it up by banking the coals against one side for indirect cooking, like this. Roast for about 60 minutes.
4) After about 60 minutes, paint the underside of the ribs with a coat of the honey. Cook for 5 minutes, underside up. Turn them over, meat side up. Paint with honey. Cook another 5 minutes. Turn them meat side down and cook 5 more minutes. Remove them, let them sit for 5 minutes, cut them into individual ribs, and serve.
This page revised 2/22/2007
