Keys to victory
There are several keys to victory in this dish:
Use a floury potato such as Burbank Russets.
If you have one, use a 12" cast iron skillet because it retains heat well, and that's important as you add cold patties to the oil. Wipe the pan clean with oil.
Shred the potatoes uniformly.
Get as much moisture out of the potatoes as possible.
Don't overbeat the egg.
Don't make the patties too large. 3" x 3/8" is ideal. Leave the edges jagged.
Wait until the oil is good and hot.
Slide the patties into the oil two minutes apart to make sure the oil doesn't get cold.
Don't overcook.
Crsip them in the oven.
Serve immediately.
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The perfect use of potatoes, better even than French fries and hash browns, is to turn them into potato pancakes, which have the best of both and then some: Crunchy mahogany edges, crispy golden midsections, and tender, rich, meaty interiors. When it comes to potato pancakes, the best recipes come from Jewish households, where potato pancakes called Latkes are traditionally fried at Chanukkah. The oil serves as a reminder of the miracle that kept a synagogue lamp burning for eight days when there was only enough oil for one. There are thousands of recipes, but this simple version, given to me by a rabbi and modified only slightly, is by far my favorite. You can use the oil more than once, but don't try to make it last eight days!
Yield. 6-8 pancakes, 3" diameter
Preparation time. 30 minutes
Cooking time. 40 minutes
Ingredients
1 pound (about three medium sized) floury potatoes, such as Burbank Russet or King Edward
1/2 cup onion, coarsely chopped or grated
1 carrot, grated
1 egg
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/2 - 2 cups of peanut oil or corn oil
Do this
1) Preheat the oven to 350F. Take a sheet pan and put a rack over it for draining and crisping the pancakes.
2) Crack the egg into a large mixing bowl, and beat it lightly with a fork. Add the carrot, onion, flour, baking soda, salt, and pepper and stir together with the fork.
3) Peel and wash the potatoes. Put in a bowl of water as you work to keep them from browning. When you are done peeling, pat them dry with a paper towel. Now shred them with a box grater so they are all uniform in size.
4) We are now going to try to get the moisture out of the potatoes. With your hands, pick up a small amount of the grated potatoes and, over the sink, squeeze out as much water as possible. Repeat until you have squeezed all the potato shreds. Then spread the grated potatoes out on a double layer of paper towels, cover with another double layer of paper towels, and press hard. Another method is to put the potatoes into the center of a few layers of cheesecloth, pull together the edges making a pouch, and twist and squeeze out as much moisture as possible.
5) Add the potatoes to the bowl with the egg mixture and make patties about 3" across and about 3/8" high. Leave the edges jagged. Place them on a platter or sheet pan. Do not stack them.
6) Heat the skillet over high. If you are using cast iron, add a few tablespoons of oil and wipe the pan clean with a paper towel. Add enough oil so that it fills the pan 1/4" deep. If the pancakes are 3/8" then the oil is deep enough to reach more than halfway up the pancake. Heat for 5-7 minutes until, if you drop a shred of potato in, it begins to bubble and fries instantly.
7) Ease the patties into the oil one at a time with a spatula, about a minute apart, being careful not to splash. You should be able to fit four into the pan at a time, but they should not be touching. The reason to stagger their start time is to keep the oil temperature hot. If you add four at a time, the oil temp will drop and the pancakes will get soggy. When you add the last one, you should notice the edges of the first one are getting golden. Check the bottom of the first patty by lifting it with a slotted spoon or spatula. It should be golden, but there still may be milky parts showing. That's fine. Turn it and cook another 3-4 minutes on the second side until golden. The edges may get brown, but be careful that they do not burn. Remove the patty and gently put it on the rack over the baking pan in the oven to drain and crisp.
8) When they are all done, scoop out the bits that are left behind in the oil, drain, cool, and eat them. Cook's treat!
9) After they have been in the oven for about 15 minutes they will darken a bit, crisp on the outsides, and cook through the center. Sprinkle lightly with kosher salt and serve hot. In Jewish homes it is common to serve them with a dollop of sour cream or apple sauce on the side. Some people have been seen serving them with ketchup, mayonnaise, or sugar on top. Me? I like them naked.
This page revised 12/9/07
