Starting charcoal fires The only way to start a charcoal fire is with a chimney. Never use charcoal that says self-igniting because it has an accelerant in it. I can taste it in the meat. Never use charcoal fluid fror the same reason. But chimneys work great. They allow you to measure the correct amount of coal, get it lit in a hurry, and they don't taint the meat. Here's how they work: First you stuff newspaper or a ice cube sized block of parafin into the bottom compartment, pour charcoal into the top compartment, then you light the paper or parafin, and in about 20 minutes the coals are white and ready. No chemical aftertaste, no solvent smell in the air, and it's a lot cheaper and safer than using lighter fluid. The Weber brand of chimney is my favorite and lasts longer than the cheaper model shown above. If you use newspaper, don't stuff too many in there or you will choke off the air flow. I use three sheets exactly (that's 6 pages), and I try to leave a small hole in the center so air can flow up. In other words, make a donut in the bottom of the chimney. Some folks splash a little vegetable oil on the paper but I never need to. Charcoal briquets should be coated with white ash before you start cooking. The reason is not for flavor, it is because when coals are white they are at max heat. If you start cooking sooner they will get hotter as they sit. The key to good cooking is temperature control, and if the coals are not white you are not managing the fire, it is managing you. OK, there is one more way to light charcoal. Some competition teams take a propane torch, mound up the coals, and letter rip. White coals in a flash.

Adding coals For long cooks you will need to add more charcoal. It is best to light the charcoal first and add white coals. Cold coals added to the fire will cool the oven. Some sensitive tasters say they can taste the additives when unlit briquets were added. Yet another reason to use lump charcoal.

Stopping charcoal fires You can extinguish a charcoal fire by dousing it with water, but beware of the steam that generates and the hot water that pours out of the bottom of your grill. If you have a ceramic grill, never use water to douse the fire or it might crack. I prefer to suffocate the fire by closing all vents. The coals can then be shaken to sluff off the ash, and used again. Never cook with charcoal or gas grills indoors. They produce carbon monoxide and that can kill you.

Mesquite or hickory charcoal? Because charcoal is mostly pure carbon plus additives, the wood from which it is made will make little noticeable difference in flavor or burning temperature. To get wood flavor, you need to add wood to the fire. Read The Zen of Wood for how this is done.

Related articles Best setup for a charcoal grill Best setup for a bullet smoker Best setup for an offset smoker Buying guide to smokers Grill safety

The Zen of Charcoal

"Why is it that one careless match can start a forest fire, but it takes a whole box to start a barbecue?" Anonymous

Let's answer the question: What's the best fuel? Wood? Hardwood lump charcoal? Charcoal briquets?

About hardwood

In the beginning barbecue cooks dug a trench in the ground, threw in dry twigs, threw logs on top, and then lit the twigs. They quickly learned the temperature was easier to regulate and the flavor better if the logs burned down to coals before the meat was placed above.

Do not try to cook with logs. Logs produce meat that is too smoky, pungent, bitter, and reminiscent of an ashtray. If you want to cook with wood, burn it down to coals first. Clear a bare patch of dirt, sand, or concrete, set a bunch of well-dried logs on fire, let them burn down to glowing coals so there is no bare wood or bark showing, and toss them into a grill. That's how purists such as Cooper's in Llano, TX do it, below.

The advantage is flavor. Hardwood smoke seeps into meat fibers coloring the meat's appearance, aroma, and taste. This is the essence of barbecue. The disadvantage is that you have to buy lots of hardwood, cut it to size, age it until dry for months, have a place to burn it to coals, transfer the coals to the cooker, and then have more burning in case you need them. Then you need to know how to use the coals, because it is easy to oversmoke meat cooked over wood coals. This is the art of barbecue.

If you are tempted to try burning wood, never use lumber scraps from your workshop. Most lumber is treated with poisonous chemicals to repel vermin such as termites. It might also repel your family. Hardwoods such as oak and maple, nutwoods such as hickory, and fruit woods such as cherry or peach, are best for cooking because they have the fewest impurities and the best flavor. Pine is full of turpines which make unpleasant and possibly poisonous smoke.

Hardwood lump charcoal

Hardwood lump is the next best thing to cooking with hardwood. It is mostly pure carbon, called char, made by heating wood in a low oxygen environment, a process that can take days and burns off water, methane, tar, and hydrogen leaving a black lump about 25% of the original weight, that packs more potential energy per ounce than raw wood.

The process is ancient, with evidence of charcoal production goes back 30,000 years. Commercial production was first done in pits covered with dirt by specially trained craftsmen called colliers. Today hardwood lump charcoal is made mostly from scrap from the lumber making process. Bark, limbs, odd chunks, and ends from the mill are carbonized by smoldering them in a kiln, a steel or stone building with just the right amount of oxygen allowed in. Very little. The result is chunks that are irregular in size, but burn clean, producesgood flavor, and leave little ash. Click here to watch a fascinating 9.5 minute video from KETV, the PBS station in St. Louis, of how Henry Strump makes hardwood lump charcoal in Steelville, MO.

The big disadvantage is that lump is harder to find, more expensive than briquets, burns out more quickly, and often bags of lump contain a lot of carbon dust from improper filtering and rough handling in the stores. For definitive ratings and reviews of lump charcoal, visit Doug Hanthorn's website, a.k.a. the Naked Whiz.

Conventional wisdom says lump burns hotter than briquets, but the folks at Cooks Illustrated proved conventional wisdom to be wrong. They took two typical six quart chimneys and filled one with lump and one with briquets. They fitted two identical grills with seven digital thermometer probes each, and learned that by volume, not weight, and volume is how most of us measure charcoal, especially if we use a chimney, the two burned about the same for about 30 minutes, but after that the briquets held heat longer and the lump turned to ash faster.

Charcoal briquets

Invented in the 1920s by Henry Ford, briquets were first made with sawdust and wood scraps from the Detroit auto plants. The Kingsford Company was founded by Ford and his friend E.G. Kingsford shortly thereafter. Today Kingsford converts more than one million tons of wood scraps into briquets a year.

According to Kingsford, their regular charcoal is made by heating sawdust and wood chips from mixed woods in special ovens with little or no air which removes water, nitrogen, and other elements, leaving almost pure carbon. Once the charcoal is prepared it is crushed and combined with anthracite coal, mineral charcoal, starch, sodium nitrate, limestone, sawdust, and borax. The additives act as binders, improve iginition, promote steady burning, and make manufacturing more efficient. Briquets typically produce more ash than hardwood lump since they contain more non-combustible materials. There's a lot to be said for a fuel source that is consistent from bag to bag. Sensitive palates say they can taste the additives in the food. I can't.

Some self-igniting charcoals such as Kingsford Match-Light contain paraffin and petroleum products. Kingsford and gov regulators say it is safe if you follow instructions, but I fear that it will taint the food. Call me superstitious, but I don't use the stuff.

In 2008 Kingsford introduced a new line of briquets called "Competition Briquets" and they appear are now in wide distribution. Kingsford claims they are made with only charcoal from wood, starch as a binder, and a bit of borax to help it release from the manufacturing presses. They ignite well, are ready to cook in about 10 minutes, burn hotter, burn longer, and produce less ash. Sensitive palates say they taste better. Problem is they cost almost twice as much as the standard Kingsford Sure Fire briquets in the blue bag. Duraflame Real Hardwood Briquets and Wicked Good 100% All Natural Hardwood briquets are made from just char and starch. Alas they are not widely available.

If you ever bump into a recipe that says "use a gallon of charcoal" here's a rule of thumb. There are about 16 Kingsford briquets in a quart, so a gallon would be 64 briquets. A Weber chimney holds about 5 quarts, or about 80 briquets.

New products

There have been a few new charcoal substitutes introduced in the past few years. I have only tried one, called Lokii, and I am unimpressed.

Lokii is made in China and advertised as an all-natural product. It is a giant seven cornered briquet about 5" wide and 2" thick. It comes in a plastic bag that is a pain to get open. As soon as it is opened I smelled something like solvent, despite the manufacturer's all-natural claims. The top is made of a different material than the bottom, and you must light the top. It is slow to ignite and then the fire creeps across the surface. V e r y s l o w l y. I lit one, and the surface was all white by the time I successfully got the second lit. The first one was at full heat, well over 400°F, in about 25 minutes, while the scond one was still smelly and incomplete. When I tried to move the first one with tongs it fell apart. I never got a good hot fire for cooking two ribeyes and dinner was an hour late while I went back to lighting regular charcoal.

This page was revised 1/29/2010

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NOMINEE: 2010 World Food Media Awards MEMBER: International Association of Culinary Professionals MEMBER: Kansas City Barbeque Society MEMBER: National Barbecue Association

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